Ethiopia: The Simien Mountains

Chapter 4: A Journey to the Simien Mountains 


From Gondar, our journey continued north into the dramatic landscapes of the Simien Mountains, one of Ethiopia’s most awe-inspiring natural wonders. If Addis and Bahir Dar had shown me the cultural and historical origins of Ethiopia, the Simiens revealed its wild, untamed soul.


The Simien Mountains National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is often called “the Roof of Africa.” Standing there, with the wind whipping across the escarpments at altitudes well over 3,000 meters (13,123 feet), I could see why. Sheer cliffs dropped thousands of feet into valleys carpeted in green, while distant peaks pierced the sky in rugged, dramatic formations.

Photo credit to JT


From the little town of Debark, we signed in at the park visitor center — the official gateway to this extraordinary landscape. Our guide arranged for local handlers, armed with rifles, who would accompany us on the trek. Their presence reminded us that these mountains are wild, untamed, and worthy of respect.


The drive into the park was supposed to take an hour, but the rugged road and the threat of rain stretched it into much longer. Heavy clouds hung low, and the mist thickened around us. Just as doubt began to creep in — would we even see anything? — a shaft of sunlight broke through, unveiling a panorama of mountains that rolled into waves of green. The road wound higher and higher, climbing into a world of jagged cliffs and plunging valleys so dramatic that it left me in awe. Every turn seemed to open up a new panorama more staggering than the last. By the time we reached the national park, it felt like we had entered another planet.


We pressed further to begin our hike. The rain held off, but the fog lingered, wrapping the escarpments in mystery. Unable to see the sweeping vistas, we turned our attention to the details close at hand: the hardy wildflowers and the Abyssinian rose, thriving in the highland air.


As the fog finally began to lift, we started our descent, walking under a canopy of mist and greenery. Our goal was to spot the Gelada — the only grass-grazing primate in the world, known for the red hourglass patch on its chest that earns it the nickname “bleeding-heart monkey.” Endemic to Ethiopia, the Gelada is found only in these highlands, living in troops that can number in the hundreds.


Photo credit to Daniel K. @wildlywanderlusting


But the Simien Mountains shelter more than Geladas. They are also home to the elusive Walia ibex, a wild goat with imposing curved horns found nowhere else on earth. Though we didn’t see one that day, just knowing they exist here — clinging to the cliffs as their ancestors have for millennia — added another layer of awe to the place.


By the end of our hike, though, hope of spotting Geladas seemed to fade. Our trail looped back to the road where our vehicle was waiting. And then, just when we thought the moment had passed, the mountain offered its gift: a rush of Geladas came tumbling down the slope, scattering across the grass as if to say, “Wait — don’t leave yet. We’re here.”


We went wild with our cameras. Daniel, the pro-photographer in our group captured the moment in stunning detail, but even without the lens, the sight was unforgettable: a wild, raw encounter offered at the very last moment.


On our return drive, the Simien Mountains revealed yet another secret. The fog cleared, and before us lay a breathtaking panorama of cliffs, valleys, and waterfalls plunging dramatically into the depths. It was as if the mountains had been hiding their beauty, only to reveal it all at once in a grand finale.


In the Simien Mountains, I understood once more why Ethiopia calls itself “The Land of Origins.” This is a place where the earth feels ancient, where rare creatures thrive as they have for millennia, and where nature still holds the power to surprise and humble us. Origins here are not relics of the past — they are alive in the gaze of a Gelada, in the hidden strength of the Walia ibex, and in the timeless cliffs of the Roof of Africa.



Photo Gallery









Photo Credit to JT

Photo credit to Daniel K. @wildlywanderlusting

Photo credit to Daniel K @wildlywanderlusting




Practical Tips for Traveling in Ethiopia


Traveling through Ethiopia is unforgettable, but it does come with quirks and challenges that are good to prepare for. Here are a few things I learned along the way:


1. Food during fasting season

Ethiopia is a deeply religious country, and fasting is widely observed. Even in first-class hotels and restaurants, menus can be very limited during fasting periods. Expect to see a lot of fasting food like injera, shiro (chickpea stew), and beyaynet (platters of vegetable dishes). There’s almost always plain spaghetti with tomato sauce or vegetables available, and some restaurants keep chicken or beef for tourists. If you’re a picky eater or need more variety, it’s wise to bring some packaged food from home — jerky, protein bars, or nuts can be lifesavers.


2. Comfortable shoes and rain protection

You’ll walk a lot, often on uneven terrain, so sturdy, comfortable shoes are essential. And since rain can arrive without warning, always keep a lightweight raincoat handy.


3. Limited tourist infrastructure

Don’t expect roadside conveniences. You can drive for hours without a proper toilet stop. Carry your own essentials: toilet paper, tissues, hand sanitizer, and basic toiletries. They’ll come in handy more than once.


4. Patience is part of the journey

Roads can be rough, and travel times long. But the landscapes, people, and history you encounter along the way make every challenge worthwhile.



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