Ethiopia: I Rock-Climbed My Way to Heaven on Earth

Chapter 7:  I Rock-Climbed My Way to the Church in the Sky

I knew we’d be climbing to see a rock-hewn church, but I had no idea what that really meant. There were five of us on this adventure, and none of us could have imagined how intense it would get. The destination was Abuna Yemata Guh, the legendary “church in the sky.” Perched on a sandstone cliff  nearly 8500 feet above sea level, it isn’t a place you simply walk into. To reach it, you must climb barefoot up sheer rock faces, squeeze through narrow crevices, and inch along ledges with nothing but the abyss below.



The climb itself is an act of faith, and perhaps that’s the point. Built in the 6th century by Abuna Yemata, one of the Nine Saints who spread Christianity in Ethiopia, this church was designed to bring worshippers closer—literally—to heaven. And as I began my own ascent, I realized that this journey was not just about reaching a destination, but about confronting fear, testing trust, and stepping into a story that has defied both time and gravity.


The Road to the Climb


The journey itself felt like part of the adventure.  From Hawzen, we drove toward Mekele to reach Gheralta Mountain where the “Church in the Sky” was carved.The rain came and went as we left Hawzen, but once we turned off the highway, the dirt road transformed into a slippery mud track. At one point, heavy rain created what our guide calmly called a “seasonal river.” With no bridge in sight, he and a couple of local guides stacked rocks into a makeshift crossing so we could get through. On the way back, the mud would trap our vehicle completely, a reminder that this adventure didn’t end at the church.


The Climb

At first, the path was easy—steps carved into the rock led us to the base of the sandstone pillar. But then reality hit. Since the rock itself is sacred, we had to remove our shoes. The guides strapped us into harnesses for the climb ahead. This was no casual hike; this was full-on rock climbing.


Granted, we had the full support of guides who knew every foothold, every rope, every stretch of the cliff. Still, the climb was both physically and mentally demanding, unlike anything I had ever done.


I pulled myself upward using hand- and footholds carved into the rock centuries ago by pilgrims who had made this same ascent. Each groove told its own story, worn smooth by the faith of countless generations. At one point, I crossed a natural stone bridge, the ground dropping away 250 meters (820 feet) on either side. My heart pounded, every step a mixture of fear and exhilaration.


The most daunting moment came when I faced a vertical sandstone wall. With nothing but a rope for balance and the steady encouragement of our guide, I scaled upward, the stone rough beneath my fingers. And just when I thought we’d reached the limit, we edged along a narrow ledge only 50 centimeters (20 inches) wide, the cliff falling away 300 meters into the valley below. It was one of those moments when faith, trust, and sheer determination blurred into one.


The Story of Abuna Yemata


The church is named after Abuna Yemata, one of the Nine Saints who came from the Byzantine world in the 5th and 6th centuries to spread Christianity across Ethiopia. According to tradition, Yemata chose this impossible cliff not only for protection from invaders but also as a symbol—worshippers would have to leave behind fear and earthly concerns to reach the holy.


For over a thousand years, parents have carried their babies up these same cliffs to be baptized, and monks have made the daily climb for prayer. In many ways, the ascent itself is the act of devotion—the church is less a destination than the spiritual journey carved into stone.


Inside the Church in the Sky


And then, at last, we reached it—Abuna Yemata Guh. From the outside, the church is modest, its entrance blending almost invisibly into the cliff face. But stepping inside felt like entering another world. The walls and ceilings were alive with vivid frescoes: saints, angels, and biblical stories painted in rich reds, golds, and blues. Many are believed to be more than a thousand years old, preserved by the dry mountain air. 


While our local guide continued to narrate about the history of the church and about the murals, a priest quietly displayed ancient manuscripts, and the air smelled faintly of stone and incense. I felt the weight of history pressing gently around me, a tangible reminder that people had made this same climb and entered this same sanctuary for centuries. To think that for centuries, families had risked everything to worship here left me humbled. It wasn’t just a church—it was a living testimony to faith that endures against gravity itself.

Outside, a natural balcony revealed glimpses of the Gheralta Mountains. Fog and rain clouds rolled through the valleys, hiding much of the view, but I could still see jagged cliffs, scattered farmland, and endless sky. Even partially obscured, the view made every heart-pounding step worthwhile.


A Journey Beyond Fear

Climbing Abuna Yemata Guh wasn’t about thrill or achievement—it was about being fully present. Every step along the sandstone cliff reminded me that faith asks for both courage and surrender. At the doorway of the church in the sky, I felt connected—to those who had climbed before me, and to something far greater, something eternal. Adrenaline still coursing, stone under my hands and air at my back, I realized this was one of the most intense and accomplished moments of my life. The descent brought no fear, only quiet fulfillment. Abuna Yemata Guh is more than a church on a cliff—it is a proof that rising, in every sense, is always worth it. 


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Practical Tips for Visiting Abuna Yemata Guh

  1. A local guide is imperative – The climb is steep, exposed, and requires local knowledge. Guides ensure safety and can share the history and spiritual significance of the site.
  2. Wear the right footwear – Sturdy, flexible shoes with good grip are essential. Sandals or smooth-soled shoes are not safe.
  3. Pack light – Bring only essentials. A small backpack with water, snacks, and a camera is enough; bulky gear makes the climb harder.
  4. Check weather conditions – Rain makes the sandstone slippery and dangerous. Dry, clear days are safest.
  5. Bring gloves – Gloves can protect your hands from rough rock surfaces during the climb.
  6. Take your time – The climb requires patience. Move deliberately, rest often, and focus on each step.
  7. Respect the site – Abuna Yemata Guh is an active religious site. Dress modestly, speak quietly, and follow any guidance from monks.
  8. Hydrate and fuel up – The climb is physically demanding. Drink water before and during, and eat light snacks to maintain energy.
  9. Mental preparation – The exposure can be intimidating. If you’re afraid of heights, mentally prepare and trust your guide.
  10. Capture memories safely – Photography is allowed, but prioritize safety over perfect shots.


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