Ethiopia: Gondar - The Origin of Empire

Chapter 3 - Gondar: The Origin of Empire

Our journey through Ethiopia brought us next to Gondar, a city often called the “Camelot of Africa.” Sitting high in the northern highlands, Gondar once served as the imperial capital — the beating heart of politics, faith, and culture from the 17th to 19th centuries. I hadn’t read much about Gondar before arriving; all I knew from our itinerary was that we would visit a castle — a UNESCO World Heritage site. That meant I had to lean in and pay close attention to our guide’s narration about the history of each structure. As he spoke, a steady stream of chanting drifted from a nearby church, filling the background like a living soundtrack of faith.


The Royal Enclosure: Six Castles, Six Stories

We began in the Royal Enclosure, a vast compound surrounded by high stone walls. Walking through its arched gates felt like entering a lost world. Inside, six castles rose one after another, each whispering the story of the ruler who built it.



  • Fasiledes’ Castle — solid, commanding, the foundation of Gondar’s imperial power.


  • Iyasu I’s Palace — once dazzling with ivory, gold, and precious stones, a palace of splendor.
  • Dawit III’s Hall — more modest, yet with an elegance that spoke of refinement.
  • Bakaffa’s Castle — a proud two-story structure with an almost European grandeur.
  • Mentewab’s Castle — the legacy of a powerful empress who shaped Gondar’s history.
  • The Library of Tzadich Yohannes I — once filled with manuscripts, chronicles, and wisdom of an empire.


Walking among these ruins, with their turrets, arches, and courtyards, I felt as though I had stumbled into Ethiopia’s royal diary, each castle a page. The stones radiated heat from the sun, and the call of birds echoed through the walls. I could almost hear the footsteps of courtiers, the sound of royal proclamations, the pulse of an empire that once looked outward to the world.


Debre Berhan Selassie Church: Angels on the Ceiling

Next, we visited Debre Berhan Selassie Church, one of the most treasured churches in Ethiopia. From the outside, it looked modest — a stone structure surrounded by tall walls and cypress trees. But stepping inside took my breath away.


The ceiling was alive with angels. Row upon row of wide-eyed faces gazed down, painted centuries ago but still brimming with life. The walls were covered in vivid murals of saints, miracles, and biblical stories, each brushstroke carrying faith through time. The dim light filtering through small windows gave the interior a hushed, otherworldly glow.


Our guide shared the legend: when Gondar was attacked in the 19th century, the church was miraculously spared by a swarm of bees that drove away the invaders. Looking up at the painted angels, I could almost believe it. Here, faith wasn’t just practiced — it was protected, preserved, and passed down.


Fasiledes’ Bath: The Pool of Solomon

Our last stop was Fasiledes’ Bath, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, which our guide and the locals called as the “Pool of Solomon.” Even in stillness, the site felt alive. The stone structure rose above a vast pool, its arches mirrored perfectly in the water. Towering trees framed the scene, their massive roots crawling down the ancient walls like sculptures carved by time itself. 


Our guide explained how each January, during Timkat (Epiphany), the pool is filled with water and thousands gather to re-enact the baptism of Christ. I closed my eyes and tried to imagine the sound of drums, the chanting of prayers, the splash of water, and the joy of thousands celebrating together. But on the day we visited, it was quiet — serene, reflective. The combination of history, architecture, and nature created an almost magical setting. With the reflections on the water and the interplay of light through the leaves, the visit quickly turned into a photo adventure — every angle revealed a new composition worth capturing. 

But beyond its beauty, Fasiledes’ Bath reminded me again why Ethiopia calls itself “The Land of Origins.” Here was a site that has stood for centuries, yet it is not frozen in the past. Each year during Timkat, this ancient pool comes alive, connecting the faithful of today with rituals rooted in centuries of tradition. In Ethiopia, origins are not just relics of history — they are living, breathing practices that continue to shape community and identity.


Gondar: Reflections in the Land of Origins

As I left Gondar, I thought back to when I first stood in front of Lucy at the National Museum in Addis Ababa. Lucy embodied Ethiopia’s claim as the Land of Origins — the origins of humanity itself. In Gondar, I felt another layer of that truth: the origins of empire, of art, of devotion that still flows through Ethiopia’s veins.


Each step of my journey seemed to peel back another layer of this country’s remarkable title: The Land of Origins.


Photo Gallery 

1. Photos from Fasiledes Bath








2.Photos from the Debre Berhan Selassie Church









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