Circle Japan: Part 4 - Toyama

 Onward to Toyama via Fushiki

After immersing myself in Kakunodate’s past, I boarded the bullet train back to Akita and journeyed west to Toyama Prefecture, passing through Fushiki, a coastal port town with a long history of trade. This leg of the trip was quieter and less touristic—but deeply satisfying in its simplicity.

A Summer Visit to Shirakawa-go: Heatwaves, History, and Heavenly Views

From the small port town of Fushiki, I boarded a bus for an almost two-hour ride into the mountains. My destination: Shirakawa-go, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Gifu Prefecture, famous for its traditional gassho-zukuri farmhouses with steep thatched roofs designed to shed heavy snow.


The journey itself was beautiful — winding roads through serene mountain landscapes, lush greenery in every shade imaginable. I visited in the height of summer, under a heatwave warning. The local advice was simple but essential: drink plenty of water.


Once in the village, I wandered through narrow paths and open fields, exploring the centuries-old houses. The most prominent was the Wada House, a magnificent three-story farmhouse that has been home to generations of the same family. Inside, I found artifacts that told stories of rural life in Japan — tools, furniture, and everyday objects that have stood the test of time.


The heat made every step feel heavier, but I was determined to reach the village’s famous observation deck. I chose the narrow, shaded trail, thinking it would be cooler under the trees. It turned out to be a steep climb, and to my surprise, there was actually a wider, more gradual road on the other side! Still, I have no regrets — the view from the top was breathtaking. The entire village stretched out below, with its perfectly preserved farmhouses nestled in green fields. I couldn’t help but imagine how magical it must look in winter, blanketed in snow — like a perfect Christmas card scene.


Of course, no cultural experience is complete without tasting the local food. I tried a regional specialty: Hoba Miso — tender beef cooked with miso paste and beans on a dried magnolia leaf over a small flame. Rich, savory, and deeply satisfying, it was the perfect ending to my summer adventure.


Shirakawa-go may be famous for its winter charm, but even under the blazing summer sun, it offered a timeless beauty that made the journey — and even the sweaty uphill climb — completely worth it.


Toyama greeted me with its views of the Tateyama mountain range and the salty breeze from the Sea of Japan.  The scenery along the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route combined with the region’s exceptional seafood - deeply connected to its natural surroundings - was more than enough  to revive this weary traveler. 


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Port of Call: Fushiki

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