West Africa Series: The Gambia


 Title: A Journey Through Banjul: Exploring the Heart of The Smiling Coast

The Gambia, the smallest country in the Mainland Africa, carries a profound historical legacy. But as I embarked on my adventure to Banjul, the capital city of The Gambia, I decided to steer away from the well-trodden paths of history and dive into the soul of this vibrant land. Passing beneath the iconic Arch 22 in an open jeep, I caught just a glimpse of the historical monument setting the tone for an adventure focused on the soul of contemporary Gambia. .  

Past the Arch 22, the landscape transformed into a patchwork quilt of contrasts. From humble dwellings to bustling markets - established stores and market stalls that stretched for miles. Banjul's essence lay in its rich tapestry of colors and diversity. The open jeep allowed us to immerse ourselves in the sights, sounds, and scents of this enchanting place. Approaching the local markets, the scenery exploded into a kaleidoscope of hues. Market stalls spilled over with fresh produce, handmade crafts, and a lively energy that permeated the air. The tapestry of fabrics worn by the marketgoers added yet another layer to the city's visual allure. Traditional garments adorned with bold patterns and radiant colors showcased the rich cultural heritage that Banjul proudly carries. 

Leaving the bustling market behind, my journey unfolded along the coastal edges, weaving through the bush, revealing the enchanting tapestry of Gambian village life

One of the highlights was the Tanji Nature Trail, a living museum that showcased the rich diversity of Gambian cultures. The vibrant tapestry of traditions and customs painted a picture of a society deeply connected to its roots.  Later, the expedition led me to encounters with nature's lively inhabitants – chattering monkeys swinging through their treetop and exotic birds, adding a kaleidoscope of colors to the landscape. 

However, it was the encounters with local communities that left an indelible mark on my journey. At a random compound and school, the warmth of the people welcomed us, eager to share their stories and traditions. It was an immersive experience, bridging the gap between strangers and fostering a genuine connection.

A pivotal moment was our visit to a school where I had the opportunity to interact with enthusiastic school kids. The schoolchildren, their faces beaming with enthusiasm, sang tunes that resonated with the rhythm of Banjul. Outside, curious boys climbed windows, eager to catch a glimpse of the unfolding tourist spectacle. The teachers and principal showed us around, providing insights into the challenges they face.  They showed us a modest library, filled with weathered books that stood in stark contrast to the technologically advanced libraries many of us are accustomed to. It was a poignant reminder of the varying landscapes of education around the world. While our children are equipped with laptops and digital resources, here, resilience and determination thrived amid limited resources.

The schoolchildren, captivated by the novelty of visitors, eagerly followed us around, their faces lighting up with curiosity and joy. Among them, a boy who seemed wise beyond his years, initially appearing to be around 10, but surprising me when he revealed he was 13. His impeccable English skills and articulate conversation revealed a glimpse into his aspirations.



The girls, adorned in well-groomed uniforms and braided hair, exuded a sense of pride and determination. Their poised demeanor suggested a commitment to education and a resilience that spoke volumes about the strength embedded in Banjul's community. Each photograph captured not just a moment frozen in time but a glimpse into the stories of these young minds shaping the future of their country.

Our journey continued to the fishing village. Our jeep rumbled along the bumpy and dusty road, every bump resonating through the jeep, creating a rhythmic dance with the uneven terrain. It was a photographable landscape, but I could no longer hold on to my camera, so I gave up taking pictures. But despite the heat and dizzying ride, excitement bubbled within as the promise of local food and beach awaited, offering a refreshing dip in its waters.

Arriving at the fishing village, the water’s allure was less than expected, yet the scene was a photographer’s delight. Men labored, hauling a fishing boat ashore, while a self-proclaimed tour guide tried to show me the day’s catch – a spectacle from crustaceans to fish. Women diligently cleaned the bounty, showcasing the vibrant rhythm of daily life. A lone girl in a red dress, balancing a basket of bananas atop her head caught my eyes. I asked her if I could take her picture and she willingly posed for me.  I gave her some dollars $$ for the trouble, but she said, "What's this? I don't know this."

Leaving the village, I couldn't help but reflect on the essence of Banjul being the "smiling coast." It was not just the picturesque landscapes or the warm hospitality but the resilience and joy emanating from the people I encountered. In the simplicity of their lives, I found a profound source of happiness, reminding me that true wealth often lies in the human connections and shared moments that transcend time and technology.

The Gambia, the land of Kunta Kinte, unfolded a different story to me—one of vibrant cultures, harmonious coexistence with nature, and the enduring spirit of a community. As I left the "smiling coast," I carried with me not just memories of a journey but a deeper understanding of the beauty that lies in the simplicity of life.


PHOTO GALLERY




At Tanji Museum

Our transportation around the village








NOTE

1. Kunta Kinte is a fictional character in Alex Haley’s book, “Roots” which was based on historical facts. 
2. Kunta Kinteh Island or St. James Island which has the ruins of the Fort and other buildings associated with the development of the Gambia River as the first European slave and trade route, is one of the most visited sites in The Gambia.
3. All photos by the author. 

Comments

Post a Comment

NEW POSTS

NEPAL: Durbar Square Before the Earthquake

Image
I was writing my blog about Nepal’s UNESCO World Heritage and historic sites very late last night (05-12-15 in Nepal) when I happened to check my Instagram and saw a posting about Kathmandu after a 7.4 magnitude earthquake hit Nepal yet again. I get emotional just by looking at the photos and videos I took from my recent trip to Nepal let alone a video of a chaotic Kathmandu. I must confess to telling a co-traveler on our way to Patan's Durbar Square that I was ‘templed out’ (the term I used to describe how I felt after visiting so many temples).  Who would have thought that the visit to that last Durbar Square and seeing all the temples that day was a great blessing.  I have said many prayers of gratitude for the opportunity to see and capture in films and photos Nepal’s UNESCO World Heritage sites and the irreplaceable temples and statues before the April 25, 2015 earthquake. The Kathmandu Valley is comprised of three cities: Kathmandu, Bhaktapur and Patan. Each city features
Read more

The Banaue Rice Terraces: A Living Cultural Landscape

Image
My interest in exploring the northern part of the Philippines started from looking at a piece of art at the Asian Art Museum in San Francisco, California.   Among the display of ceramics and pottery engraved with gold and other decorative stuff,  a wooden carving of a male figure squatting on a platform with the lower arms on top of each other, resting upon his knees, caught my eye.  According to the docent, the wooden sculpture was called "Bului" which literally means "granary guardian" in the "Ifugao" tribe dialect. The carved wooden sculpture was set on a platform on top of another platform, a mortar.   Our docent explained the significance of the wooden mortar (which was used with the pestle, to separate the husk from the rice, sort of rice mill) and linked the story to the Rice Terraces in the Cordillera Mountains of the Philippines built 2000 years ago by the “Ifugao” tribe. So two years and three hundred kilometers north of Manila later, we explo
Read more

Poland: The Wieliczka Salt Mine

Image
One of the most spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Sites I visited this year was the Wieliczka Salt Mine near Krakow, Poland. It was founded in the 13th century to mine the rich deposit of salt. Salt mining stopped in 1996 when the low price of salt on the world market made it too expensive to mine and the mine was slowly flooding. But miners did more than just extract salt. They left behind them a breathtaking record of their time underground in the shape of statues of mythical, historical and religious figures.  Part of the salt mine became an art gallery, chapels, cathedral, and underground lakes. Today, Wieliczka Salt Mine is one of the most visited National Monuments in Poland. For safety reason, less than one percent of the mine is open to visitors, but even that is almost four kilometers in length. There are 20 chambers to visit and 800 steps to climb of which 350 at the beginning take you down into the mine. You can’t just visit and wander around on your own. All of the visits
Read more