Greencaviar Travel

Chapter 5: The Italian Road to Axum - History, Cliffs & Checkpoints  The night before our journey, our guide warned us: tomorrow’s drive would be long, but beautiful. “Very scenic,” he added with a smile. I nodded, imagining rolling hills and dramatic cliffs. What I didn’t know was just how much “long” and “beautiful” could mix with tension, fear, and exhilaration. The road from Debark to Axum, carved by the Italians through the cliffs of Limalimo, twists like a ribbon laid by hands that dared the impossible. It’s often called one of Ethiopia’s most scenic drives, but beauty here is inseparable from danger. Narrow switchbacks cling to cliffs, sheer drops disappear into fog, and checkpoints — military and militia alike — turn the road into a test of nerves, patience, and trust. We hadn’t gone far before reality struck. Soldiers with stone faces and rifles halted us at the checkpoint.  Our driver and guide spoke quietly with the soldier, their exchange serious. Seeing our un...

Chapter 4: A Journey to the Simien Mountains  From Gondar, our journey continued north into the dramatic landscapes of the Simien Mountains, one of Ethiopia’s most awe-inspiring natural wonders. If Addis and Bahir Dar had shown me the cultural and historical origins of Ethiopia, the Simiens revealed its wild, untamed soul. The Simien Mountains National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is often called “the Roof of Africa.” Standing there, with the wind whipping across the escarpments at altitudes well over 3,000 meters (13,123 feet), I could see why. Sheer cliffs dropped thousands of feet into valleys carpeted in green, while distant peaks pierced the sky in rugged, dramatic formations. Photo credit to JT From the little town of Debark, we signed in at the park visitor center — the official gateway to this extraordinary landscape. Our guide arranged for local handlers, armed with rifles, who would accompany us on the trek. Their presence reminded us that these mountains are wild,...

Chapter 3 - Gondar: The Origin of Empire Our journey through Ethiopia brought us next to Gondar, a city often called the “Camelot of Africa.” Sitting high in the northern highlands, Gondar once served as the imperial capital — the beating heart of politics, faith, and culture from the 17th to 19th centuries. I hadn’t read much about Gondar before arriving; all I knew from our itinerary was that we would visit a castle — a UNESCO World Heritage site. That meant I had to lean in and pay close attention to our guide’s narration about the history of each structure. As he spoke, a steady stream of chanting drifted from a nearby church, filling the background like a living soundtrack of faith. The Royal Enclosure: Six Castles, Six Stories We began in the Royal Enclosure, a vast compound surrounded by high stone walls. Walking through its arched gates felt like entering a lost world. Inside, six castles rose one after another, each whispering the story of the ruler who built it. Fasiledes’ C...