Circle Japan: Part 5 - Tsuruga

A Cultural Tapestry in Tsuruga: Shrines, Festivals, and Floating History


My recent visit to Tsuruga, a port city on the Sea of Japan, turned into an unexpectedly rich dive into the cultural heart of Fukui Prefecture. Though I arrived a bit ahead of the annual Tsuruga Festival, held each September, I still caught a vivid glimpse of its spirit—thanks to some serendipitous timing and a well-curated museum trail.



A Sacred Welcome at Kehi Jingu Shrine

I began my journey at Kehi Jingu Shrine, the spiritual heart of Tsuruga and one of the most historically significant shrines in the Hokuriku region. Established in the early 8th century, this Shinto shrine is best known for its grand torii gate, one of the three largest wooden torii in Japan. It stands tall and stately, a vermilion gateway between the earthly and the divine.


During my visit, I was lucky enough to witness a kagura performance—a sacred Shinto dance that blends music, mythology, and ritual. Performed within the shrine itself, the dancers’ movements were slow, deliberate, and filled with symbolism. The haunting flute and drum rhythms gave the performance an air of timelessness. Though not quite festival season, it felt like I’d stepped into an ancient rite—an early preview of the celebratory energy that floods the city each autumn.




Festivals in Still Life at Minato Tsuruga Museum

From there, I wandered to the Minato Tsuruga Museum, where the Tsuruga Festival was brought to life in a more modern form. A short film introduced the history and vibrancy of the festival, culminating in a powerful moment: the screen lifted, and one of the actual yama floats—used in the parade—was revealed in dramatic fashion.


The museum houses six yamas, with three on display on the first floor. These aren’t mere floats; they’re towering works of art featuring oversized human and animal figures, each one paraded through the streets with theatrical flair. Seeing them up close gave me a new appreciation for the community effort and craftsmanship behind the festival.


Tsuruga’s Role in Global History: The Port of Humanity Museum

Next, I visited the Port of Humanity Tsuruga Museum, which highlights one of the city’s most remarkable legacies. During World War II, Tsuruga was the only Japanese port to receive Jewish refugees holding transit visas issued by Chiune Sugihara, the Japanese diplomat stationed in Lithuania who defied orders to save thousands. The museum tells the moving story of these “visas for life” and the local people who welcomed the refugees. It’s a deeply humanizing space—modest but powerful—and a reminder of how compassion can ripple outward from even the smallest ports.


A Touch of Europe in Tsuruga: The Red Brick Warehouse and Diorama Museum

My final stop was the Tsuruga Red Brick Warehouse, a striking historical structure that once stored goods imported through the port. Today, it houses the Tsuruga Diorama Museum, which offers a delightful miniature recreation of the city’s rail and port long history of migration and cultural exchange. 

The exhibits are immersive, connecting Tsuruga to the broader narrative of Japan’s international interactions, especially during the Meiji and Taisho eras when modernization brought waves of change.

After all the museum-hopping, I sat down for a meal in the warehouse’s cozy restaurant. The ambiance—part industrial, part nostalgic—was the perfect ending. My meal was local, fresh, and deeply satisfying, grounding me after a day of cultural immersion.


Tsuruga surprised me. I came looking for a quiet port town and left having uncovered layers of sacred tradition, resilient history, and vibrant creativity. Whether you’re drawn by festivals, stories of heroism, or just want a slice of small-city charm with a global heart, Tsuruga delivers—all year round.


Port of Call: Tsuruga 


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